PowKiddy Q90 Retro Handheld Review

The PowKiddy Q90 is a sheep in a different sheep’s clothing, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. At first glance you could easily confuse The Q90 with the LDK Game, since they have identical buttons, d-pad, joystick, and shell. Turn it on and you could easily mistake it for the Bittboy PocketGo since it is pin-for-pin compatible with the budget handheld, compatible to the point that the SD cards are interchangeable. That’s not to say there is nothing new here, but is it worth the added cost?

Get yours on eBay: https://ebay.to/36TKLAA

Anbernic RG350M Retro Handheld Review

The Anbernic RG350 is the standard by which all modern gaming handhelds are measured. For it’s solid performance, good compatibility, and large user base, the RG350 is the go-to for most people who retro game on the go. Coming in to 2020, Anbernic released a new edition to the RG350 line, the RG350M. With an asking price hovering at double the original model and the competing PocketGo V2.1, is this the ultimate retro handheld?

Get yours one eBay: https://ebay.to/3cLzJQ3

I 3D Printed My Own 5.0L Expandable/Stacking Mini-ITX SFF PC Case

Was looking for a case that would make a great NAS system, but wasn’t finding anything SFF. Took what I learned from my open-frame case and made an expandable, stacking case.

Had a few goals in mind:

1) Printable on almost everything. This case is 185x185mm so anything with ~200mm bed will work.
2) Printable with no supports. Have done it with all my other cases so why stop now.
3) Able to hold any number of hard drives.
4) Should hold together without fasteners.
5) Stack the case in any order you want.

This case supports:

Mini-ITX MB
SFX-L PSU
Dual-slot GPU up to ~175mm in length (triple-slot cooler will work with riser pieces)
3.5in HDD
2x 2.5in SSD
4x 70mm Fan (or a single 140mm fan)

Any of these can be printed multiple times if you need more than one. No glue needed, though you may want to if you use multiple spacers.

Power Switch: https://ebay.to/2J4hE3L
Thumb Case Screws: https://ebay.to/2IRbRPX
PCIe Riser: https://ebay.to/2yLSAvC
CPU Cooler- Scythe Big Shuriken 3: https://ebay.to/2IR7Pps
Motherboard- Asus Strix B450-I: https://ebay.to/2FCvhVc
PSU- Corsair SF600: https://ebay.to/31WK0UJ

3D PRINTING SETTINGS
Default piece is 185x185mm. GPU extends 5mm for the mount.

Print with at least 20% infill, 3 parameters recommended. Parts print in 2 to 12 hours.

PETG recommended for components that produce a lot of heat (CPU, GPU).

Bittboy New PocketGo V2.1 Review

In 2019, Bittboy released a successor/upgraded model to their budget retro handheld, the PocketGo. The New PocketGo, also known as the PocketGo V2, added a bigger display, additional buttons, a joystick, and much better internals. Coming in to 2020, Bittboy decided to refresh their new flagship by addressing a few common complaints with the original model while also changing a few other features. What’s the differences between the two models?

Get yours on eBay: https://ebay.to/2zqCKqa

I 3D Printed My Own 10.8L Open-Frame SFF ITX PC Case

Had been noodling around with creating an Open Frame case for a while now, but after seeing this case (https://ift.tt/2XVDfmo) I finally decided to make one.

Immediately there were things this case did that I wanted to change:

1. That case was over 400mm tall, much bigger than needed.
2. Wanted to make something printable by most people, so designed to print in an Ender 3.
3. Use no supports.
4. Use SFX PSU instead of ATX.
5. Minimal assembly/parts.

This case prints in 4 pieces taking ~4-6 hours a piece. You’ll need 12 pegs total and it’s recommend your glue the pegs and pieces together. A good strategy is to print one piece at a time along with the pegs for to connect to the next piece. That way you can glue in the pegs while waiting for the next piece to print.

Recommended printing order: MB, Back, PSU, Base.

PSU piece has pass through peg holes that you will probably need to hammer in. Use case screws for MB and GPU, normal screws for PSU.

Supports SFX PSU, Mini-ITX MB, Two-Slot GPU. Should be easy to modify if you want to add a HDD slot or 3-slot GPU.

Power Switch: https://ebay.to/2J4hE3L
Thumb Case Screws: https://ebay.to/2IRbRPX

.32mm Layer Height
3 outer layers
3 top/bottom layers
20% infill (I used cubic infill)
No supports

Download STLs: https://ift.tt/2yxVB2p

SFF On A Budget: 3D Printed PC Case

I wasn’t thrilled with the price of the very small SFF cases so I decided to take a stab at designing one myself. My last attempt still required several additional components so I decided to try to make the most bare-bones case I could.

STLs: http://bit.ly/2xivSqx
Original Case: http://bit.ly/2WF5wxB

1) Printable on regular 3D printers. Normal version was printed on an Ender 5, but the shorter version can print on an Ender 3.

2) Have as much as possible 3D printed. Other than case screws and a power button you shouldn’t need any other pieces!

3) Print with zero supports. Hate removing them, so design around them.

4) Needed to hold an dual-slot GPU (280mm on the full-size case, ~170mm ITX card in the shortened version), 70mm CPU cooler, and SFX PSU. Only officially supports M.2 drives, but has space up front if you want to add HDD mounts.

5) Minimal Assembly. Prints in two parts which can be attached with case screws, though not needed.

Power Switch: https://ebay.to/2J4hE3L
Thumb Case Screws: https://ebay.to/2IRbRPX

There is space for 1 120mm fan (or 140mm fan with 120mm holes). I used this fan: https://ebay.to/2E3dUwc

3D PRINTING SETTINGS
.32mm Layer Height
4 outer layers (Could go less, but since we are screwing things into plastic I went the safe route)
20% Infill
No Supports

At 60mm/s (.4mm nozzle) inside takes ~17 hours, cover you may want to print at a slower speed to keep the vents straight so plan for 48hrs+.

Will use ~1KG of PLA. ~.6KG for cover, ~.4KG for interior. Shorter version should be under 0.9KG.

Everything should mount with case screws.

Ender 5/3 Silent Motherboard Upgrade

The Ender 5 is a pretty unique 3D printer. Very few printers in 2019 have an H-bot design, something typically found in higher end printers, are around $300, and are not a kit. One thing that that is not unique is the noise it makes.

Ender 5 Firmware: http://bit.ly/31S6hTG
CH340 Drivers: http://bit.ly/2YgmyzH
AVRDude: http://bit.ly/31L25Ff
Silent MB (now black pcb): http://bit.ly/2YbQ49I

That almost dot-matrix printer-like sound may be endearing to some, but with large prints taking days to complete, the noise is not exactly ideal. While some printers, like the Anycubic i3 Mega, have user upgradeable boards, Creality ones do not for cost saving measures. Luckily Creality has thought of this and makes a complete board swap to bring TMC2208 goodness to the Ender 3 and Ender 5. At $50, is it all upgrade?

I’m not going to go too deep into the installation of this part, seeing as it is literally unplugging everything in one place and plugging it in somewhere else. No changes, no surprises. I moved each cable one at a time to ensure I put them all in the right place, but you don’t have to.

If you have an Ender 3 then you are done, installation complete, enjoy your new motherboard. With an Ender 5, time to flash the motherboard. Unfortunately this is not a streamlined process, and the internet wasn’t much help. Creality does host the file you need to flash, but it does not make the software to flash it. All the tutorials for flashing the Ender 3 and 5 all require you purchase additional hardware, something the new motherboard doesn’t need.

So what will you need? First you’ll need the file from Creality, the drivers from gogotronics, and AVRDude. Links to everything below. Once you install the driver, plug in your printer to the computer using the USB cable, and install AVRDude, you are ready to flash your printer. I renamed the creality firmware as ender5.hex and put it in the root folder for AVRDude. Then load up CMD Prompt to the AVRdude location and type the following:

avrdude -c arduino -p m1284p -P COM3 -U flash:w:ender5.hex

My usb ended up being COM3, but yours may differ. Once that is done your printer should be ready to print.

BUT, it isn’t exactly the same. It seems like the voltages are lower for the stepper motors with the new motherboard which, while doesn’t change most things, it can no longer reliably support travel speeds above 100mm/s. This isn’t too far off the 120mm/s I was using before, and the printer is now almost silent other than the fans, but it is one downgrade to an otherwise good, if not costly, upgrade and it may ruin a few prints if you forget to change this.

Should you get the silent motherboard for your Ender 5? If you have your printer in a common area like I do, 100% yes. Is yours in a closet where you can’t hear it? Your printer is probably already silent enough.

*Yes, I know this board does offer a few more enhancements, but most of them you can add/simulate using other means if needed. Bootloader, TL Smoothers, etc.

I 3D Printed My Own 6.6L SFF PC Case

I wasn’t thrilled with the price of the very small SFF cases so I decided to take a stab at designing one myself. Sorry about the audio quality. Not sure what happened.

Get the STL’s here: http://bit.ly/2WF5wxB

I already had a parts list in mind so this isn’t the smallest I could make it, but had a few qualifications in mind.

1)Printable on regular 3D printers. I designed this initially to print on a Cetus3D Extended, but also kept it in line with a Creality Ender 3. Printed dimensions 147x179x250mm (6.58L)

2) Have as much as possible 3D printed. Only thing you need is standoffs for the PSU, a power button, and a PCIe Riser if you want a GPU. You could probably mount several 3.5in Drives where the GPU would go, though I didn’t try. Depending on your PSU standoffs, you may need a right-angle power cord.

3) Print with zero supports. Hate removing them, so design around them.

4) Needed to hold an ITX GPU (~170mm), 70mm CPU cooler, and SFX PSU. Only officially supports M.2 drives.

5) Minimal Assembly. Prints in two parts which can be attached with case screws, though not needed.

Power Switch: https://ebay.to/2J4hE3L
PCIe Riser: https://ebay.to/2JAx53Q (may want to go longer depending on MB, get 300mm if unsure)
35mm M3 Standoffs: https://ebay.to/2Wjflh6
1ft C13 Right Angle Extension: https://ebay.to/2ZIxJC5
Thumb Case Screws: https://ebay.to/2IRbRPX
C14 Socket (if you want to hard mount power cable): https://ebay.to/2V8PsnN

Extended version adds space for 1 120mm fan (or 140mm fan with 120mm holes). Interior remains the same. I used this fan: https://ebay.to/2E3dUwc

If PCIe cable is short, try wrapping cable through M.2 cut-out.

3D PRINTING SETTINGS
.3mm Layer Height
4 outer layers (Could go less, but since we are screwing things into plastic I went the safe route)
20% Infill
No Supports

At 60mm/s (.4mm nozzle) inside takes ~17 hours, cover takes ~38.

Will use ~.8KG of PLA. ~.5KG for cover, ~.3KG for interior.

Other than PSU, everything should mount with case screws.