Anbernic RG350M Retro Handheld Review

The Anbernic RG350 is the standard by which all modern gaming handhelds are measured. For it’s solid performance, good compatibility, and large user base, the RG350 is the go-to for most people who retro game on the go. Coming in to 2020, Anbernic released a new edition to the RG350 line, the RG350M. With an asking price hovering at double the original model and the competing PocketGo V2.1, is this the ultimate retro handheld?

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I 3D Printed My Own 5.0L Expandable/Stacking Mini-ITX SFF PC Case

Was looking for a case that would make a great NAS system, but wasn’t finding anything SFF. Took what I learned from my open-frame case and made an expandable, stacking case.

Had a few goals in mind:

1) Printable on almost everything. This case is 185x185mm so anything with ~200mm bed will work.
2) Printable with no supports. Have done it with all my other cases so why stop now.
3) Able to hold any number of hard drives.
4) Should hold together without fasteners.
5) Stack the case in any order you want.

This case supports:

Dual-slot GPU up to ~175mm in length (triple-slot cooler will work with riser pieces)
3.5in HDD
2x 2.5in SSD
4x 70mm Fan (or a single 140mm fan)

Any of these can be printed multiple times if you need more than one. No glue needed, though you may want to if you use multiple spacers.

Power Switch:
Thumb Case Screws:
PCIe Riser:
CPU Cooler- Scythe Big Shuriken 3:
Motherboard- Asus Strix B450-I:
PSU- Corsair SF600:

Default piece is 185x185mm. GPU extends 5mm for the mount.

Print with at least 20% infill, 3 parameters recommended. Parts print in 2 to 12 hours.

PETG recommended for components that produce a lot of heat (CPU, GPU).

Bittboy New PocketGo V2.1 Review

In 2019, Bittboy released a successor/upgraded model to their budget retro handheld, the PocketGo. The New PocketGo, also known as the PocketGo V2, added a bigger display, additional buttons, a joystick, and much better internals. Coming in to 2020, Bittboy decided to refresh their new flagship by addressing a few common complaints with the original model while also changing a few other features. What’s the differences between the two models?

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I 3D Printed My Own 10.8L Open-Frame SFF ITX PC Case

Had been noodling around with creating an Open Frame case for a while now, but after seeing this case ( I finally decided to make one.

Immediately there were things this case did that I wanted to change:

1. That case was over 400mm tall, much bigger than needed.
2. Wanted to make something printable by most people, so designed to print in an Ender 3.
3. Use no supports.
4. Use SFX PSU instead of ATX.
5. Minimal assembly/parts.

This case prints in 4 pieces taking ~4-6 hours a piece. You’ll need 12 pegs total and it’s recommend your glue the pegs and pieces together. A good strategy is to print one piece at a time along with the pegs for to connect to the next piece. That way you can glue in the pegs while waiting for the next piece to print.

Recommended printing order: MB, Back, PSU, Base.

PSU piece has pass through peg holes that you will probably need to hammer in. Use case screws for MB and GPU, normal screws for PSU.

Supports SFX PSU, Mini-ITX MB, Two-Slot GPU. Should be easy to modify if you want to add a HDD slot or 3-slot GPU.

Power Switch:
Thumb Case Screws:

.32mm Layer Height
3 outer layers
3 top/bottom layers
20% infill (I used cubic infill)
No supports

Download STLs:

SFF On A Budget: 3D Printed PC Case

I wasn’t thrilled with the price of the very small SFF cases so I decided to take a stab at designing one myself. My last attempt still required several additional components so I decided to try to make the most bare-bones case I could.

Original Case:

1) Printable on regular 3D printers. Normal version was printed on an Ender 5, but the shorter version can print on an Ender 3.

2) Have as much as possible 3D printed. Other than case screws and a power button you shouldn’t need any other pieces!

3) Print with zero supports. Hate removing them, so design around them.

4) Needed to hold an dual-slot GPU (280mm on the full-size case, ~170mm ITX card in the shortened version), 70mm CPU cooler, and SFX PSU. Only officially supports M.2 drives, but has space up front if you want to add HDD mounts.

5) Minimal Assembly. Prints in two parts which can be attached with case screws, though not needed.

Power Switch:
Thumb Case Screws:

There is space for 1 120mm fan (or 140mm fan with 120mm holes). I used this fan:

.32mm Layer Height
4 outer layers (Could go less, but since we are screwing things into plastic I went the safe route)
20% Infill
No Supports

At 60mm/s (.4mm nozzle) inside takes ~17 hours, cover you may want to print at a slower speed to keep the vents straight so plan for 48hrs+.

Will use ~1KG of PLA. ~.6KG for cover, ~.4KG for interior. Shorter version should be under 0.9KG.

Everything should mount with case screws.